The Sharlafied Love Train Diaries 2023 - Part Two

Budapest

March 7, Tuesday

Regretfully, after a fine breakfast at the Ritz-Carlton, I had to leave my fancy digs to head for the train station and my train to Budapest. The Regiojet service cost just 13 euro for business class, drinks, leather seats, Wi-Fi, the works. I am very excited to hit Budapest, it is a city I have always wanted to visit. My friend Simon from Altos gave me a huge list of places to visit and I know I will only have time to scratch the surface. I can always come back. My Hotel Rum was really cool and strategically located. They even have a Michelin starred restaurant, but that can wait for another time.

My first stop was to New York Cafe, dubbed the most beautiful cafe in the world. There was a little queue to enter but it went very fast. While waiting in line I chatted to the guy behind me, named Uriel, from suggested we share a table to get in quicker and he agreed. This café lived up to its expectations—gilded gold pillars, frescoes, live music alternating from a pianist to a string quartet. I wanted to try the local palinka, so our waiter said he would bring me a little taste of the plum variety “free of charge”. I asked for a snack to go with my wine and he brought a big bowl of peanuts “free of charge”. Touristy? Yes. Crowded? Yes. A must visit? Yes. Thanks for the conversation, Uriel. He works in IT but also works in Dublin as a… wait for it… bartender! I must have radar!

My next stop was The Duchess at Hotel Matild Palace, part of the Marriott group. The bar had not opened yet so I took a tour of the rooms while I was waiting. The hotel, dating back to 1901 was opened in 2021 after an extensive reconstruction. The building is a twin of the one across the street, built for two sisters. They had both fallen into disrepair and the Matild was restored to perfection. It hosts Wolfgang Puck’s Spago restaurant, a nightclub cabaret and the rooftop bar The Duchess. When I arrived, I was warmly greeted by GM and bar manager Antonio DeLuca, a very charming man from Calabria. It was fun to switch into Italian with him. He showed me his new concept for the bar, which I can’t reveal, but it will be very exciting. DeLuca worked in China for a number of years, as well as Dubai and many other spots around the world. He was very proud of his team and I decided that this would be the perfect bar to present my cocktail from Roberto in Vienna. Antonio made me an Americano with a twist, using Pedro Ximénez sherry instead of vermouth. It was amazing! In fact, so good that I asked if they could make one for me to take to Prague. After thinking about what container to use, they presented a simple sous-vide bag. So handy for traveling! Antonio showed me the rooftop with a view of the Danube and the Elizabeth bridge. Stunning. I gave Antonio my sticker and he announced—Ok I am going to start a new tradition right now. He put my sticker on the tap at the bar and would add others until it was full. I was the first!

My next stop was to Good Spirit bar where Alex served me a classic Americano while offering suggestions on other bars to hit. One that was not on my list was Baba, a stylish and friendly bistro bar serving Asian inspired food. I had a few fried chicken bites which paired well with my drink called Kuku, with kalamansi, basil, honey, lime, and tonic. Created as a mocktail, I asked for a dash of gin to cut the sweetness and Bence and Julia added Orient gin by Pienaar & Son. It was the perfect place to end my first evening exploring.

March 8, Wednesday

Happy Women’s Day! Daytime is for exploring and I simply had to try the famous thermal baths. I chose the Szèchenyi baths, easily reached by underground. My original idea was to just take a few pictures but as I had thrown my bathing suit in my bag I said, what the hell… The admission was is 25 euro with a “spa package” of 29 euro for a towel, slippers and obligatory bathing cap. Literally everyone was taking selfies in the pool. The pool was full of people but it was very large so there was no crowding. No one wore the obligatory bathing but there was a serious-looking “Hair Police” . He would blow his whistle at the hair offenders, showing a picture of long hair with an x over it and another picture of a woman with a ponytail. The policeman had a handy bag of free scrunchies for the people violating the rule. The important thing was that I got my selfies with the historic yellow building behind me. So touristy, but I’m so glad I did it. For lunch it was a modest self service Hungarian restaurant serving goulash soup. At Lecsò The price was outrageously low, zero ambience, but the soup was meaty and warming, not the least bit spicy. After more navigation drama, I made my way back to my hotel for an afternoon break before my marathon last night in Budapest.

My first bar stop was back to Duchess to present Antonio with the boomerang made by Roberto American bar in Vienna. The drink is called Mic Lemonade and has Patrón Silver, lime juice, simple syrup with cucumber, topped with Fentimans Rose Lemonade. Antonio couldn’t wait to taste it so he made it on the spot and we all had a sip. Delicious! He is even considering it for his next menu. He also gave me a drink to take to Prague. I had to taste a chimney cake, these are handmade in Budapest, crispy, with cinnamon and sugar. But enormous! I tasted a bit and gifted the rest.

My next stop was Hotsy Totsy, a bar that wins hands down for the best logo and entrance sign. The bar is dark and cosy, and I was warmly welcomed by Marcel and Adam. Marcel made me a perfect daiquiri and I ordered some pretzels which deserve a special mention, they were so good. They were flattened, sliced and crispy and covered with an irresistible dust.

No time to waste, time for the next bar, Pharma. A tiny place with blonde wood and clean lines, there is a periodic table on the back wall, which was their original drinks menu. Richard was half English and half Hungarian and although not trained as a bartender, was very good and knowledgeable. When I admired his tiki cup collection, without another word he prepared 3 mini Mai Tais for us to taste together. A chill place and chill guy. He also gave me some good recommendations for my list of bars.

My next stop was Black Swan, a bar that received high praise but was described with a few raised eyebrows. Walking in I understood why. No I didn’t have reservations, no I don’t want to sit at a table, can I sit at the bar? Yes? Ok. Darius gave me the menu and explained that the list of flavors on the menu are not necessarily in the drink, but they will be sensations in the drink. I won’t know what spirit is used in the drink, because the spirit used will match perfectly. After asking a few questions about my first choice (I am very picky), I realized that it was not for me. Luckily he had not started to prepare my drink so I pivoted for Beauty and the Beast, listing as flavors-pineapple, black tea, soy sauce and poppy seed; 20% abv. The drink was strained (one point) had poppies sprinkled on top (another point) and tasted like heaven (ding ding ding!). Pretentious? Yeah, kinda. But this time, they won me over. The whole drinks list is based on different areas in Hungary and the cocktails are created by the whole team. A strict no waste philosophy is in place and very few fresh fruits are used, unless they can be used in their entirety. They also have a rotovap and make some of their own spirits. Including “pineapple paper”, an edible garnish made with the skin of pineapples. The bar snacks like the smashed potatoes and spiced cashews were amazing. Darius and Black Swan, I am a fan.

Now it's time to visit Ruin bar, an institution in Budapest for the younger set. It’s basically a “ruined” building that is thrown together with scores of bars, nicks and crannies, weird decorations, a place to watch cartoons on a big screen, another place for beer, one for cocktails, a room to practice yoga, and music, lights, people and fun. It just has to be experienced, and the one I suggest is Szimpla Kert , there really is nothing like it. Look around and you will find a few of my stickers posted here and there.

From the bottom to the top: my last stop was to the highest rated bar in Budapest Mùzsa. An art Nouveau bar located in the atrium of the Four Seasons Gresham Palace, along the Danube. The staff were very gracious and when I expressed interest to know more, Norbert asked if I wanted to see some of their secrets. You said the magic word, Norbert! He proceeded to show me the locked rooms to the right and left, first the showcased with some nearly priceless Macallan whiskies, custom made and hand engraved glassware that is used in the bar, porcelain from a factory that made a design especially for their hotel. The firm also furnishes the royal family in England. There were two telephones at the exit of the room, essentially “hotlines” to the glassworks and the porcelain producers, just in case a guest has the urgent need to order some products for home. On the other side of the bar, I saw some other pieces from the porcelain collection and their rotovap—it’s a thing. I had a mocktail this time, because tomorrow would be an early night. Well prepared and sweet.

Tomorrow, Prague and new adventures.

Prague

March 9, Thursday

An early wakeup to catch a cab to the station on the Buda side of town. While waiting for the train, I found a group of American young people who were to board the same train as me, so we waited together. The train trip was to take 7 hours: my taxi driver said that to get there by car it’s only 2.5 hours! Well, I have tons of work to catch up on, so I’m not bothered by the ride. In fact, I just barely got my work done, and I didn’t have a moment to do research for my next project.

Check in to the beautiful Almanac X Hotel, formerly the Alcron, and the Alcron name will remain as it has historical value, as the first and only luxury hotel in Prague, founded by Alois Krofta and built in 1932. Many of the Art Deco architectural details had to be left intact /thank God), such as the marble floors, wooden walls, brass railing on the marble staircase and chandeliers. The hotel's contemporary design was able to merge with the original elements to spectacular effect. The hotel reopened in early March 2023. My room was divine! I headed out to explore the city based on the first bars to open.

The first was Absintherie, serving absinthe in the traditional way, macerated with a sugar cube and placed on fire, Blue Blazer style. The absinthe is to be drunk straight ( 70°) with a side glass of water. Here Danisa served me expertly and I struck up a conversation with Tara and Kory from Texas. I couldn’t believe it but I finished the whole glass!

My next stop was to the historic Hemingway, where George, Matthew and Katarina were capable and friendly, bringing me up to speed on the cocktail lists, one based on classic Hemingway inspired cocktails, and one list with twists. I decided to pay homage to Papa with a daiquiri, and they served it frozen with ice slush. I wasn’t expecting that, but it was tasty. I met a nice woman from Taiwan who is a bar aficionado as well.

Next, over to Vinyl Bar where I dropped off the boomerang from Needles Vinyl bar to Slavka. Apart from the name, there were some vinyl records, but later I found places that would have been a better fit (like Pilotu). Oh well. The following spot was the Black Angel in the basement of a hotel. This place is a real throwback with a beautiful varnished wood bar and when I got out my phone to photograph, Tomas stopped me. No photos allowed; it is to maintain the speakeasy atmosphere. So I posted a story including a black screen on IG. A well prepared drink, though.

My next stop was to L’Fleur, named for the owner's mom, and in French because the owner has a huge collection of champagne. I ordered a light vermouth and soda but Marek offered me a bit of champagne as well. He and his two colleagues Luca (Italian) and Roman are all entered in World Class Czech Republic. I mentioned about the boomerangs I have been taking around and Marek asked if he could give me one to send to Copenhagen. I hadn’t planned on this because I will have carry-on baggage for my flight, but he put it in a sous vide bag, so I said I’d try. He also recommended some other bars to visit.

Last stop was Parlour, with a wonderful vibe and Tomas made me my last drink of the night.

March 10, Friday

As soon as my hotel bar opened, I stopped in to see Karel, who made me three cocktails from the new menu that was yet to be unveiled. They were clear, sleek, colorful and well balanced, and Karel is a kind, modest and friendly soul. I want to come back here when the official cocktail menu is unveiled! This bar is definitely going to turn heads! I also tasted some local Slivovitz straight, very good! Time to see some sights, and I happened on to the main square, which was mobbed at 12 noon for the chiming of the astrological clock. It was a spectacle, including the dancing skeleton. Then, after lunch in a typical restaurant filled with Italians, on to famous Jewish quarter and the clock with Hebrew letters instead of numbers. The architect thought that since you read from right to left in Hebrew, the clock should run backwards. Wrong, but there it is.

My first bar was on the hillside above the center, Cafe Bar Pilotu, suggested by Marek. Yes! Owned by Lucy and Vojta, this place was gutted and rebuilt by the couple and their family. It was filled with old bar books, wood, lots of sofas and a very friendly vibe. I spoke to Timothy at the bar and he explained the two menus: One is a homage to businesses in the area, with a cocktail dedicated to each one. (genius) and the other was called Something Else, and uber-creative menu with hints of what you will be drinking. I ordered “French bread” meant to taste like liquid bread and Lucy’s favorite, made with cognac and sweet dessert wine, topped with crunchy airy garnish. Sooo good. I discovered the man eating next to me at the bar was owner Vojta, and I explained about my trip and the boomerangs. He insisted to make one “The essence of the Forest” for me to take to Copenhagen. What have I gotten myself into! They even put my sticker on their front window!

Next stop, Bonvivant’s CTC, spoke to owner Tomas and bartender Honza and tasted some local booze, Becherovka, a very herbal liqueur drunk from its own little teacup. Tomas explained that all the furnishings were repurposed from old Czech furniture, you could still see little keyholes on a table and the front of the bar. Thanks for posting my sticker! There was also a bookcase with a secret passage for private groups. Cash only here, bring some currency. (although Tomas offered my little taste, thanks!)

Now it was time to get to Anonymous Shrink’s Office, which I reserved the day before using my Sharlafied cred. It is about impossible to get in here without a reservation way in advance. Located below a normal western-style bar, I made my way to the back and the secret door opened to let me down the stairs. Dark, with tables for small parties, the bar had no stools, it was presented kind of like a stage. The waiter explained the concept: I will receive a series of colorful cards with designs, a take on the psychological inkblot Rorschach tests. There is no indication of what cocktail it represents. The darker colors represent a stronger drink and the brighter ones a bit lighter. I gave them my allergies and chose my card without hesitation. I now had a chance to get a hint about the drink but I didn’t want one. The show began, with the bartender whipping out his flair skills. When I asked their names, they said, “No names here, we are anonymous”. OK…. When the waiter brought out my drink he was in a white sock mask covering his whole head, adorned with an inkblot. Weird. My drink was a twist on a spritz with vodka and vanilla (a sweet kid’s taste palate I thought), but it had a float of Peychaud bitters which made everything better. It was perfect for me. Trust psychology.

Next, Tretters, Prague's oldest and Europe’s second oldest American bar, founded in 1912. If you use your navigator to find it, good luck! You need to go into the Municipal house and go down the stairs. Head bartender Ondrej seemed to have won every award and knew every big bar personality. Bankers bar was next, where Martina made my drink and offered a little bar banter. This place seemed to be a nice date night bar.

Then, just for fun, last stop at Cafe 80s, complete with disco ball, bartenders in headbands and tank tops, and a dance floor with strictly 80s tunes. And who rolls up? The kids I met on the train from Budapest. They were on the first stop of their pub crawl so they were still coherent! After a quick dance to YMCA, I head back to Almanac X to say goodbye to Prague, that’s a wrap.

And the Sharlafied love train has reached the final station. Now it’s all travel by plane. Next stops: Copenhagen and Amsterdam.