Lisbon’s Vibrant new Hospitality Scene

Lisbon’s Hospitality scene is on fire! Look what we’ve discovered on our trip while we were at the Lisbon Bar show

On a recent trip to Lisbon for the Lisbon Bar Show, I was able to sample some of the new Portuguese cuisine on the scene today… often with cocktail pairing.

Hotel Lumen is a bright light on the Lisbon hotel scene….a radiant experience.

This hotel was carefully planned with light in mind. The curtains in the lobby have cutout squares to allow natural light to filter through; the materials used to face the bar are reflective, and theLED lights in the lounge change in intensity with the daylight.

All 160 rooms have floor to ceiling windows , either with a view of the street or of the Photosynthesis Courtyard and the video mapping show. An in-room tablet allows guests to communicate any requests with the front desk, as well as provides information around the city.In addition, each room has a mirrored wall that reflects the colour scheme on the headboard, and natural light floods through the windows.Three different colour schemes are used in the rooms:Golden Dawn, with yellows that reflect the vibrant tones of sunrise; I scored the Copper Nightfall, whose oranges and reds are reminiscent of the warm colours of sunset. Pure Light and its grey hues contrast the light and shadow that define the moment before night finally falls.

Ora d’Oro Rooftop Bar & Pool At the top of the hotel, the Rooftop Bar & Pool offers two views of Lisbon: of the river and of Miradouro de Nossa Senhora do Monte. The orange-hued pool plays with the reflected sunlight, intensifying and reddening the color of the tiles on the bottom. This is where you can best experience the golden hour of the city with a cocktail in hand, from the pool bar.

Photosynthesis Courtyard takes its name from the process of photosynthesis – the light giving plants their life force. The hotel’s multi-purpose open-air space benefits greatly from the circumstances of its location. Pools of water between the flowerbeds refresh the air and the imposing buttresses are gradually taken over by nature as the ivy planted during construction starts to grow.

Clorofila Restaurant . With another nod to light, the name is from the green pigment that plants use to make food during photosynthesis. With direct access to the exterior, it is the hotel’s fine dining outlet. Chef Celso Dias creates wonderful Portuguese flavors for modern sharing experiences in a relaxed atmosphere. My dinner was a tasting menu created for sharing; the amuse bouches were heavenly and every course was delicious, offering a variety of Portuguese and Mediterranean specialities. The service is attentive, friendly and excellent. The wine list offers a host of prestigious Portuguese labels.

The meal begins with this lovely amuse bouche

Videomapping At precisely 10 pm, the Lisbon Light Show begins. Directed by Cláudia Martins and Rafael Carriço, it combines technology and architecture to create a memorable experience for guests and diners at Clorofila Restaurant, and those taking a break in the Photosynthesis Courtyard.

Images are projected on the wall and buttresses that I saw from the restaurant but could have viewed directly from my room. The 15-minute show was spectacular, with images and music highlighting the vibrant culture of Lisbon. Like the hotel as a whole, the city’s light takes center stage. It shows everything that the light allows us to see – and experience – in the Portuguese capital. The show depicts a day in the life of the city beginning at dawn’s first light. During the show, the colors and glinting lights change, transforming how the city is framed. Iconic details like the architecture, tiles, Portuguese guitars, sardines, trams and colorful doors show guests the unique features of the city. The real sounds of the streets and squares are added to Lisbon’s Fado music, in a journey that takes you through different city bairros.

my room reflects the colors of sunset in the mirror

Hotel Lumen lit up my enthusiasm and is a shining example on the Lisbon hospitality scene.

The striking tiled facade of Hotel Hotel *photo by Francisco Nogueira*

Animal is the restaurant in Hotel Hotel, a cool bolthole- part of Design hotels -just off the Avenida di Libertade. The restaurant is indoor/outdoor, facing a swimming pool and a veritable jungle of plants. The cool neon sign on the wall says says “ A fancy ass pretentious meal a day keeps sad days away”. The menu is short, with new takes on Portuguese specialities. And come on, how many restaurants have their own tattoo parlor downstairs?

The matcha-fueled Louva a Deus cocktail

Foamy, fruity and very jungle-y!

The cocktail team are on point with their libations; they served me a Louva a Deus: Tanqueray gin infused with jasmine, with lemon juice and matcha foam, a not-too-sweet, green and bubbly drink. The first thing to taste is the homemade sourdough wheat and oat bread served with Azores butter and bio olive oil. It was hard to hold back to preserve my appetite for what was to come. I started with a tuna tartare, which was a work of art in itself. The tuna was fresh and hand-cut; the citrus ponzu sauce was tangy and divine.

My next course was chicken with miso and Asian rice, bursting with flavor. The rice was hidden underneath the grilled poultry and it was a true delight for the palate. The amiable server Vera was extremely knowledgeable about the local wines and offered an excellent pairing for the meal. Dessert was a matcha parfait with ginger foam, lychee ice cream and topped with crispy meringue. A divine way to end the meal.

As for the hotel, it is an art gallery, with original works on every floor. The rooms are sleek, with the bar and wardrobe hidden behind sliding mirrored panels. An unusual touch was the floor rug, a highly textured creation with raised balls that feel so good underfoot. The bedding was crisp and white; the pillows were clouds. The hotel is on the street but the soundproofed, air-conditioned rooms assure peace and quiet. And the staff! So caring, so smiling, so eager to help. Bernardo escorted me to the room and gave me a full briefing of how everything works.

The rooms… and that rug was heaven to walk on barefoot… *photo by Francisco Nogueira*

Hotel Hotel is a young, happy place that is doing everything right. They can thank Lúcia Cunha, the general manager who has conducted luxury hotels around the world with enthusiasm and grace. Lúcia, you have done it again with your outstanding leadership style.

Zunzum and Marlene Vieira are names to remember. Marlene Vieira is a Portuguese star chef who has done things the hard way: At 12 she begged her parents to let her work in a restaurant; at 16 she enrolled in the Hotel Management School of Santa Maria da Feira; at 18 she packed up to try her fortune in New York. There she worked at Alfama restaurant in Manhattan where she gained a new appreciation for Portuguese cuisine seen from a distance. In the following she honed her skills at 5 star hotels and restaurants until, at 31, she opens her own restaurant called Avenue in the heart of Lisbon. At 34, when her daughter was born, she closed the premises and in 2018 wrote Os doces da Chef Marlene, a month-by-month cookbook based on seasonal recipes. In 2020, she debuted Zunzum Gastrobar, a perfect example of her energy, determination and creativity. Marlene, is her second venue, which opened in 2022. It is the culmination of her history, memories and technique, paired with the utmost respect by seasonality and sustainability. She is an outspoken proponent of women in the male-dominated culinary work and a pioneer in her field.

Marlene Vieira made her name through determination.

Zunzum is a bright and casual venue, with sleek marble tables and bright red sofas at the cruise terminal on the Lisbon waterfront. The couvert was traditional brioche bread served with butter and a lightly spicy chorizo paste. My starter was a swordfish ceviche with passion fruit, sweet potato, red pepper and coriander. It was a masterpiece to the eye, and a thrill for the palate. Not one drop of sauce was left on the plate! My next dish was Pica Pau octopus, Pica Pau means woodpecker and it is a local gravy made from beer, garlic, oil chili and mustard on a bed of rich Romesco sauce with delicate little saucers of onion adding flavor and beauty to the dish. Delightful, and cooked to tender perfection. Dessert was Abade Priscos pudding with egg white, prosciutto, cinnamon port wine and raspberries: sounds odd, but it was so good! A soft, delicate and happy ending. I am looking forward to trying Marlene, on my next visit!