Forest Collins: Paris Cocktail Queen

Her 52 martinis online guide serves up the latest news on the Parisian boozy scene, she has written for Drinks International, SeriousEats, Rumporter and many other publications, she ran a members-only cocktail club, has a cocktail bar app, a podcast Paris Cocktail Talk and radio show. She has been named the Academy Chair for France for the World’s 50 Best Bars. She also created a successful cocktails Meetup group of over 1,300 members who regularly attend cocktail events she organizers in the city’s best bars or private locations.

My interview with Forest

Hi Forest, it was lovely to meet you in Venice for Venice Cocktail week. As one American – European transplant to another, I am going to ask you some of the questions I always get asked. I know you were born in Sweetwater, Texas but you moved to the UK, then all over the USA with your family, why was that?

My father was in the Navy, so we got to move a lot, which is a really fun way to learn about different places and people.

What sparked your interest in cocktails?

I have always been passionate about food and drink. But beyond that, I love entertaining. Inviting people into your home, your space, and sharing a meal with them, creating a convivial moment is one of the most enjoyable ways to spend an evening. Giving your guests something special is about more than just a meal - it’s the full context and that includes drinks. Early on, I realized that creating memorable meals and perfect cocktail parties were a big part of successfully entertaining - basically, not just welcoming someone into your home, but making something wonderful for them so they know that you really care about whether or not they spend a pleasurable moment with you.

Maybe as a result of my moving a lot when I was young, I’ve always been passionate about travel. Food and drink is a great way to learn about cultures when travelling as well. So, when I travel I don’t just visit restaurants, but cocktail bars. Cocktails were a common denominator of some of my favorite activities and become, in and of themselves, one of my favorite activities as well!

You moved to Paris in 2001, was there a special reason why?

I moved to Annecy, France in 2001 and planned to stay for six months to study French. I always believed that it was important to learn a second language, as a way to open your mind and learn more about other people. At the end of the six months, I was hooked on France. I didn’t initially move to Paris because I thought it would be more difficult to learn French in a big city. But after a couple of years, I was ready to tackle Paris and have never looked back.

What were your biggest challenges as soon as you moved to Paris?

Learning the language was the biggest challenge. And it definitely took a few years. That was the keystone challenge. Once I felt comfortable in French, that made it possible to overcome the other challenges that come with moving to a new country: building friendships with the locals, dealing with administration, understanding the culture.

Like in many places, there is still some way to go to get more women “behind bars”

How well were you accepted into the French bartending scene?

I started blogging about cocktails in 2007. That was a period when there was no real craft cocktail culture happening in Paris (and really part of the reason I started the blog). Like me, there were people who were interested in this niche - so I was easily accepted. Back then, there were so few of us who were early adopters of this ‘trend’ that it was really interesting and exciting to talk about cocktails with anyone who appreciated this new wave of classic cocktails. Cocktail talk helped bridge language and culture barriers and the global cocktail community was smaller and together back then.

How important do you think it is to speak French to be truly accepted into the bar scene?

I think it’s important to speak French to be truly accepted as someone who is serious about understanding the sensibilities of the culture around food and drink. However, the nature of bar work means that it is very easy - and for professionals important - to speak English.

How is female employment going in the bar world in Paris and France in general?

Like in many places, there is still some way to go to get more women behind bars (both as bartenders and bar owners). But I think Paris is a great place for this and there are some really important female players on the scene. From the city’s early cocktail days, you have people like Carina Soto Velasquez, co-founder of Paris-based Quixotic Projects (Candelaria, Mary Celeste, etc) to more recently with talent like Margot Lecarpentier of Combat bar.

“Enchanting Forest”: with Ms Collins at Ca’ Maria Adele Hotel for Venice Cocktail Week, the Sharlafied popup called… Enchanted Forest!

How have things changed in the bar world since you came to Paris and now?

Things are entirely different. When I started blogging about my search for the best cocktails in Paris, there were no bars serving serious cocktails as we know them today. It was a time when the Experimental Cocktail Club had just opened and introduced the French to what modern day cocktails could be. It was a real challenge to find a bar that might meet the standards I had become accustomed to with cocktails after travelling to cities like London and New York, or returning ‘home’ to Seattle.

What is the hottest selling spirit in Paris now?

Technically, in terms of numbers, whisky is a very big seller - consistently topping the list of the the most consumed alcohol. In the cocktail scene, the trends are following more global trends with an interest in terroir-driven spirits like mezcal and also local spirits like cognac, armagnac and calvados.

What has been your biggest satisfaction since you have been in this world?

Seeing the transformation of the city’s cocktail scene. When I started blogging, I would go into a new bar and order a martini as a standard of comparison. The majority of the time the bartender either served me a glass of sweet vermouth (Martini brand) or a recipe that wasn’t even close to the classic dry martini. Now, many of the city’s more notable cocktail bars have a martini on their menu. I like to think that over the past fifteen years, I have played a small part in the city’s cocktail transformation and the ubiquity of a good martini.

You also have a podcast, when did you start that?

I started the podcast probably about ten years ago, but it has definitely changed over the years. The biggest change was when it got picked up by World Radio Paris, which helped me to create a better structure to the practice and the episodes.

What was your biggest challenge in podcasting?

Learning what works. In the beginning, podcasters tend to be very enthusiastic and embark on a plan that may not be realistic. My early shows were weekly and featured three guests per show. They were fun and interesting but not realistic to maintain in terms of schedule and energy. Once I reduced it to monthly and just one guest, I was able to really focus in on one show and produce something that was more worthwhile. Quality over quantity. Of course, that’s just the schedule that works for me as someone with other related projects like the app and the blog.

Have you ever had a job as a bartender?

No. I’ve covered shifts a few times in friends’ bars but I never worked as a bartender. I do all of that kind of work as a home bartender, which suits me fine.

Do you ever go to dive bars in Paris? If so, which?

I love dive bars - little random spots here and there. My favorite ‘dive bar’ in Paris is Red House. One might not technically call it a dive bar, but I feel its rowdy, fun atmosphere and non-pretension makes it one for me. No wine on offer, beer on tap and great cocktails.

By your website name, you must love martinis. Where have you had your best ones in Paris?

These days it’s easy to get a great martini in Paris. Most recently I've enjoyed one at the newly opened Le Tout Paris on top of the Samaritan overlooking the Seine. A few other spots I love for a martini are Little Red Door, Bluebird (nice selection of gin), Crillon for a high end martini in a fancy space.

Your favorite bar in Paris this week?

At the moment, I’m loving Rehab. But my favorite really depends on my mood, the time of night, who I’m drinking with.