Dry January: pain or pleasure?

Some people think that dry January is rubbish—especially bar owners who see fewer customers on the stools.  But what about offering exciting cocktails for those who say no to alcohol?

A Punjabi Mango at Gong, hotel Shangri-La.

Dry January started primarily in the UK as a way to reset after the excesses of the holiday period. Some people view it as a fun challenge, some for health, and some to make a lasting change. Working in the drinks industry can mean multiple visits to bars in a single day, and unless you apply some discipline, things can go off the rails.  I took Dry January as a challenge to bars, to see what they were offering to their customers, not only for January, but for the entire year.   

Some of the things I’ve noticed

Cocktail bar menus are changing—the “mocktail” or no alcohol options are no longer an afterthought.  Often, if you wanted a proper non alcoholic drink, you would have to request it.  Now, no (and low) alcohol options are printed along with the other drinks offered.  Props to The Connaught, offering 3 no alcohol options listed along other cocktails.  Their list is in order of strength, so you can easily make a choice by going up or down the list. Ago Perrone and Giorgio Bargiani were both on hand when I stopped in and they slipped me a Virgin Mary with air of celery that blew me away. 

 Non alcoholic options are getting more varied. At Artesian, for example, I found one sweet, one sour and one smoky cocktail on offer, all very instagrammable and tasty, with the massive creativity of Giulia Cucurullo and her team. Giulia takes pride in making everyone feel special, whether they choose to imbibe or not.

The promotion of non alcoholic cocktails  is a key concern for Gong, on the 52nd floor of the Shard, and their Asian-inspired drinks  fit with the aesthetic and menu of the pan-asian dishes offered to pair. The Punjabi Mango was a winner in my book.  Kurt Macher and Lottie Fisher are big innovators and they gave new meaning to “getting high…and dry” in London.

Giorgio and Ago at the Connaught Bar.

The store that wants to go out of business. Laura Willoughby, the most important spokesperson on the no alcohol scene today, opened her Club Soda tasting room in Covent Garden a month ago thanks to a crowdfunding drive, and business has been brisk.  She stocks strictly non-alcoholic beverages, although her goal is to add low abv options as well.  Laura’s shop does free tastings, seminars, and sells drinks at her bar to educate the public as well as bar owners, of the options available. Willoughby says that when her job is a success, it will mean people will not have to come to her shop anymore, because all the brands will be known and readily available in the bars in London and beyond. Three standouts at her shop were Lucky Saint Lager—so satisfying!  Wild Idol sparkling, and Noughty dealcolized Syrah. 

It’s all about social inclusion.  Laura Willoughby is a bit of an evangelist on this point, and for good reason. When she stopped drinking she often resorted to bringing her own beverages. People want to join in and celebrate together; whether there is alcohol in the glass should not be an isolating factor.  

Laura Willoughby.

Laura continues: “Bar owners who offer a water or Coke to a non-drinker are missing a trick.  There is revenue to be made on non alcoholic cocktails so these products should not be an afterthought.”  Add religious, health related and specific diets to the mix and it’s obvious that bar owners need to serve these clients, too. 

The Bar at the Marylebone, of the Doyle collection, is known for their cosy cocktail bars and they offered a solid Nogroni, as well three non-alcoholic choices for January. The Maracuja, a fruity twist on a spritz, the Bruce-Ketta, the proper phonetic pronunciation of the Italian bruschetta, with a tomato shrub and basil, and Forager, with elderflower and Salcombe First Light, a zero-alcohol juniper-based product. The affable staff will take good care of you and offer a variety of imaginatively prepared finger food to pair with your cocktails.      

The Cocktail Bar at the Marylebone Hotel.

Velvet, the newest reboot by the Corinthia Group, is a soft, sexy bar hidden behind a theatrical red curtain that was curated by Salvatore Calabrese. The gracious staff are all smiles and offer a welcome baby Martini for the drinker.  I chose the twist on a rum and coke with Crossip Dandy Smoke. Craving a less sweet option, I tasted the Crossip by itself and was pleasantly surprised by its bold slightly bitter flavour that paired perfectly with Lurisia chinotto. This night, Velvet was being visited by other bartenders in the area and the atmosphere, with live music every day, was convivial. Calabrese’s Breakfast Martini was featured, as well as his trademark cocktails made from vintage spirits from his private collection.  

The plush atmosphere of Velvet bar at Hotel Corinthia

Mocktail list at Velvet

My short stay in London was filled with drinks at the finest bars, and was completely satisfying.  The big bonus was the clear hear the following morning.  I will be incorporating no and low more and more in my cocktail forays around the world.  In my book, Dry January is a nice marketing scheme, but the secret is to drink smart all year round. 

A January shoutout to my friend  Emanuele Genovede, creator of Amàrico aperitivo,  a peach-based drink with interesting botanicals  that could sub out a vermouth, and the newest addition, Amàrico Americano Rosso with a hint of cherry and a bitter finish, for an Americano without the booze.  Emanuele will be in London soon for some tastings around the city, so stay tuned!

Thanks to all the bars I visited and I can’t wait to get back for more!