A talk with Ciderologist Gabe Cook
His passion for cider has taken him around the world. His knowledge has placed him on radio and TV, and he has just published a book on cider. Introducing Gabe Cook, the Ciderologist.
Can you give me a little bit of your background? How did the whole journey start?
I come from a village called Dymock on the Gloucestershire-Herefordshire border that's part of a very old and proud traditional cider and perry making area, historically. Perry, incidentally is the fermentation of pears, made in the same way as cider. Today, the world's biggest cider maker is in Hereford just a dozen miles away and in the village next door there is one called Much Marcle with Westons, the fourth largest seller producing today. So, I grew up in an area full of orchards, with that liquid flowing all over the place. As well as enjoying drinking cider, I came to realize that it brought together all the things I was interested in: local history, wildlife and cultural heritage practices and booze of course as well, so…
Were you in the booze industry? Were you a bartender or anything related to that?
No, I went to university, I studied geography, and I came home because I didn't really know what I wanted to do. So I was back staying with my mum and dad—I was working for a company in Gloucester that was a retail outlet. I'd been traveling and started to visit some of these small cider farms. At one in particular, Ross on Wye Cider & Perry Company, I got sort of friendly there and volunteered, picking apples and helping out. After a long backpacking trip I went back to Ross & Wye where the owner, Mike Johnson, asked me if I needed a job, and I said yes. Mike needed somebody to help him with the cider harvest that year; that was in September 2006. And so that's how my cider journey started. So it was learning the art and the skill of traditional cider making but also about the understanding of different sensory characteristics. I had to talk about it. It was an absolutely fascinating experience.
So you were working for this company at the time. When did you decide to chuck it all and go out on your own and become the ciderologist?
That was a number of years later so after working on the smaller farm, I went to work for Westons as a cider maker. So went from working with two hundred liter wooden vessels to 200,000 liter stainless steel tanks, applying the same principles and characteristics to the cider making process, with just a “slight” difference in terms of scale! After a couple of years. I realized that I was better suited talking about advocating the drink and the category rather than necessarily on the production, especially on a large scale and so the opportunity was afforded for me to work for Heineken as a cider communications manager. I did that for three years. It was a fascinating experience working with the local community.
So promoting strictly cider?
Professionally, I’m strictly cider. Personally, I am reasonably knowledgeable about wine having worked for Waimea Estates in New Zealand for a while. I enjoy drinking beer and I understand the process of production. Because my role is only focussed around cider, It’s my knowledge, my passion. So after doing the Heineke job for a few years, I decided to go and live in New Zealand for a while. I backpacked there and I've always wanted to live and work abroad so I worked for a cider maker for a time, also in the cellar of a winery which I enjoyed but I was missing the cider activity.
Is there a big cider production in New Zealand?
There’s some, one or two very good makers, but the category is very small. Beer and wine are very big there, so I decided to come back to the UK and have a crack at becoming a ciderologist, so 5 years ago I started.
Cider is well known in the UK and France, in what other countries is it prominent?
If we are talking about the Old World of cider and perry , we are talking about the UK, Normandy and Brittany, also Northern Spain: Asturias, the Basque country and Galicia. It would seem that in that part of the world is the oldest commercial heritage of cider making, well over 1000 years, absolutely incredible. Also in the Hessen region of Western Germany, and parts of Switzerland and Luxembourg there is a long and deep history of cider making.
Today, wherever apples grow, cider is made, and some of the things that excite me very much is that there are sensational cider makers all over the world, from southern Chile, to Washington State, USA and central Victoria, Australia and the Western fjords of Norway.
I live in Italy and there's a huge production of apples in northern Italy. Do some ciders come to mind that are Italian made?
We are talking literally in the last 10 years max, especially the last five years, there are many in the Trentino and Piedmont areas—it's starting.
Do you know if ciders are used in cocktails at all?
I think some people would use it. It's not generally regarded particularly strongly.
I am starting to hear about beer in cocktails.
Well if beer is being used, certainly cider can be.
It seems to have that acidic element…
Well, it depends on what varieties you use. Those apples that do contain high levels of acidity will bring freshness and crispness, equally if you use the classic western countries’ apple varieties that have got a high degree of tannin and bitterness. That will provide a real bold intensity. I think it can and should be used more in cocktails.
Will you be launching a cider of your own?
If I were to, it would only be very small. Having worked as a cider maker for four of the cider makers smaller and bigger. It's really hard making ciders, and even harder making good cider and trying to sell it. The thing is, I’m a bit too nosy. I want to know what's happening with everybody. So that takes me away if I'm making my own cider. I would have to focus on it more than I probably wish to. So I do make a little bit for myself for fun. Maybe one day I'll make a little bit more, but I'll never do it as the sole focus of my enterprise.
So your job as a ciderologist is mostly speaking engagements and teaching?
It’s writing, talking, teaching, tasting, training, judging and consulting. The overarching emphasis is about trying to get cider more visible within the broader category to enable media trade and consumers to be aware that these different drinks exist and that they can be exceptional, and that there is a diversity and range of different styles. There isn't just a singular thing and I’m taken on board by some brands, it’s mostly about events and activities. It’s about transmitting the understanding and the appreciate the drinks with me as that as advocate or champion in the category.
So it's a category that doesn’t have the stigma attached to it in certain countries where it is less known.
That is a definite advantage. It's something that I enjoy and appreciate when I go to countries that don’t have the old heritage, unencumbered by that tradition. It can be playful and fun to create a new narrative. It does come with its own challenges of cider if there is no old heritage. What is this drink? I’ve never heard of it.
Is there an ABV range it has to stay within?
Every market will have a different range for duty purposes. The alcohol amount in a cider is determined by two things: first of all, the amount of natural sugar that is contained within the apple because if you've got a smaller amount of sugar, you're going to have a lower output; for a higher amount of sugar, you get a higher alcohol level. You potentially have the opportunity to add some extra sugar into the juice. You can also lower the alcohol content by dilution. So in the UK, there is a minimum juice content of 35%. If you want to make a fermented apple beverage, you can do what you want. If it doesn't fit into what is cited for tax purposes, you will pay wine duty which is at a higher rate. To be eligible for cider duty in the UK, the product has to be under 8.5% abv. That doesn’t preclude someone from making a cider at 10% abv, they just have to take the duty hit.
Five questions for Gabe
A cider term that describes your personality.
Unctuous.
The strongest cider you've ever tasted.
Reverent Nat’s Wooden Hellfire hard cider 18% ABV.
The cider makers must-have accessory or tool.
An apron for when it's pressing season because that juice gets everywhere!
What do you still need to learn about cider?
Everything. It's all about understanding the consumer. I think the consumer’s appreciation and awareness of what cider is, if we can begin to understand that and to try and tip the balance and alter some of that then I'm excited that cider has a very good future.
Your favorite way to drink cider.
With friends.
Where you can find Gabe
Gabe’s book: Modern British Cider
Instagram: @ciderologist
Patreon: The Ciderologist